The shop peaks at 85 decibels, near power-tool territory but no longer unusual for American eateries. We can pin the din on converging trends that began in the 1990s. First, owners started favoring modernist or industrial looks. Out with carpeting, upholstery, and drapes that were great sound absorbers but now deemed stuffy. In with high ceilings, bare floors, and walls and furniture made of hard, sound-reflective materials like concrete, tile, metal, plaster, and glass, which send noise careening around the space.