And while many Westerners have, shall we say, difficulty with hardcore Chinese food, Gilmer straight-up seeks it out. “I’m pretty sure I had poop the other day,” she says, more embarrassed to talk about it than revolted by the experience. “I was eating some duck, and I grabbed this one piece—I thought it was liver. It looked kinda different,” she says. Honestly, who can identify cooked duck feces? “I was like, maybe it’s some kind of organ—and I like organ—so I didn’t think anything of it. Then I bit into it, and I was like, oh, God, no. That’s not something you’re supposed to eat.”
Gilmer swallowed it—whatever it was—and went back in for another piece. “You can’t be a punk when eating in China,” she says. She laughs, and the chicken feet arrive. Gilmer tucks right in.