Now, it's not unusual for cocktail makers-amateur and pro-to fuss about precision, tools, and temperatures. But Klemm's approach is more complicated; he understands the blend of chemist, chef, and showman required to justify top dollar for a few ounces of juice and booze-and to get a signature drink mentioned in The New York Times. His lab, a terrazzo-tile bar with Egyptian glass, contains beakers filled with candied ginger and grapefruit, homemade maraschino cherries, and pickled leeks. He's a botanical enthusiast who spends down time searching health food stores for marigold flowers, then brews them into an infusion called calendula. He contemplates the effect of alkaline (ginger, papaya) and acid (grapefruit juice) solutions when suspended in premium alcohol and hypercooled with the correct number of vigorous shakes.