Make a device that lets you easily operate almost any appliance in your house using your TV remote

How to Set Up the Amazing Zapper (step three) Once the remote is programmed to control the lamp, turn it off from the comfort of your couch, and enjoy a movie without ever getting up! pachoumis.com; Luis Bruno

So you’re ready to settle down on the couch in front of a good movie. Wait, there’s still work to be done: Turn off the lights, make popcorn, maybe even mix some drinks in the blender. No, don’t get up—just use a home-built receiver box that lets you turn any household appliance on and off with your TV remote. For example, plug a lamp into an outlet on the box (we’ve dubbed it the Zapper), program one of the remote’s little-used buttons to control it, and the next time you want to watch Halloween VI, you’ll barely have to lift a finger to set the mood.


Control Your Life Remotely

PARTS

STEPS

For a full schematic, click here.

1 Download the IR-receiver data sheet from www.simerec.com.

2 Snip the receptacle end off an extension cord. Bend two scrap wires into a “Y” and connect that to a wire from the cord. Connect the two arms of the “Y” to the socket and wall adapter that go inside the Zapper. Connect the cord’s other wire to the adapter, which provides five volts for the IR receiver and relays.

3 Follow the schematic to assemble the IR-receiver circuit, switches and relays.

4 Fit all the parts into the electrical boxes.

5 Plug the box’s cord into the wall. To program, point the remote at the box and hit the button you want to use, following the sequence in the data sheet.

6 Plug appliances into the outlets. Press the first programmed button to turn the first outlet on, and again to turn it off. Repeat with the second button and outlet. To operate the appliance, leave its power switch on.

Comments

That schematic leaves SOOOO much to be desired.
What, exactly, do the two SPDT switches do?
Is that single yellow LED actually tied to one side of BOTH the SPDT switches?
If so, what, exactly, does it indicate?
Why are the relay-driver-resistors so small compared to the Application Example in the SIS-2 pdf? (150 ohms v/s 4.7K)
And what are those little black dots? Not connection points, obviously...
Anybody???

After receiving a lot of hits from this posting, we wanted to clarify a couple of things.

First, if you want a truly universal solution, use the schematic and parts listed in the SIS-2.pdf from the simerec.com web site. Why? You need a wide-band IR receiver in order for the SIS-2 chip to "see" the remote signal correctly.

Long story short, if you use a 38KHz receiver as specified in this article, you will not be able to pick up many remotes at a usable distance (RCA, Pioneer, Samsung...to mention a few).

The solution...use the Vishay TSOP-1140 IR receiver and the SIS-2.pdf at simerec.com. The TSOP-1140 is available via Mouser and other suppliers.

Why does the TSOP-1140 work where others don't? It has a center frequency at 40KHz, but an inclusive drop-off that will also pick up 36KHz-56KHz well. All remotes on the market (except for Bang & Olufsen and Vidikron) are in this frequency range (36KHz-56KHz).

We want your project to be a success, so if you have any questions, post here, or contact support@simerec.com.

This is a very awesome gadget, and I think it is VERY useful, however, I would like to see the same thing except using the SIS-7C chip for 7 outputs.

RLamb

from Pittsford, NY

Ohh that's cool. This would work really well with the 7-code IC and a power strip!

I think this could be fun to build but you do not supply enough illustrations for the layman to go by. Is there a way to get better step by step instructions on how to build this?

The schematic appears to show two 1N4001's but your parts list only calls out for one. What up?



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